June 29, 2009

Mon amie arrive!

Filed under: storytime — Tags: , , , , — Lindsay @ 3:20 am

I’m sitting here this morning documenting the past few days because I’m honoring my friend’s request to upload her wedding pictures from last weekend to flickr. Since I took so many, it’s taking forever, and I have a lot of time.

Yesterday was a very easy day. I took a walk around Luxembourg Gardens and St. Sulpice. My friend lives on Rue St. Sulpice, so both of these places to see are within 2-3 blocks. The Luxembourg Gardens are impeccably immaculate, well groomed and beautiful. In fact, I took another walk around there today. The Palais du Luxembourg is actually home to the French Senate, so on my walk today I convinced myself that all the men I saw in suits were very stately looking, and therefore had to be politicians!

When my friend, KJC, arrived, we spent the afternoon lounging around her apartment. She napped, I watched more Al Jazeera and broke in her oven. We took off around 4 pm, walked over Pont du Carrousel and into the Louvre. We saw IM Pei’s pyramid, Jardin Tuileries and then walked around Palais Royales to do a little shopping; in observation, it is interesting that we simply strolled by. In France, there are only 2 times a year that stores can have sales, Soldes. All other times, stores can only say that sales are promotions. So right now, lots of good shopping to be done!

Before we headed out for dinner, KJC showed me her laundry room. An otherwise illustrious room on the 5th floor that she uses for storage becomes something amazing when you can take a photo like this:

Me in the Laundry Room

Me in the Laundry Room

Yes, that would be the Eiffel Tower in the background.

Est-ce que les Français détestent les Américains?

Filed under: storytime — Lindsay @ 2:55 am

My Saturday was never ending as I was completely jet-lagged, tired, but awake at the same time.  I got home from the parade around 8:30 pm.  On my way back from Marais to St. Germain, where my friend lives, I walk right through Ile de la Cite and past the Notre Dame; my friend says I need to actually go inside and to the top, so I’ll have to try that sometime this week.  I passed out and woke up at 12 a.m.  Realizing that I’m not going to go back to sleep for a while, I venture out to find some food.  Every cafe looks dimly lit and too romantic for me to walk in alone at this time at night.  As I’m walking down a small street, a man closing his restuarant asks me where I’m from.  When I say San Francisco, he pulls out his license and shows me he lives on 7th Ave in the Inner Richmond.  Do I really look that American, and even Californian to a single passerby?  I suppose so!

After dinner I’m too tired for a classic French lounge so I visit The Moosehead which is around the corner from my friends; it’s a Canadian bar playing the Yankees and Mets game.   I’m quickly approached by a french guy who promptly says to me “I hate Americans, and their culture.”  When I told him that saying that was not the best way to introduce himself to me, he said “You’re in my country, and you have to listen.”  Clearly he has no game.  He proves to me to be more ignorant than anyone I’ve ever met before.  He thinks America is imperialistic (read this article), and that everyone should stay in the place that they are from (good, he can stay in France).  When I reminded him how imperialistic his country was in the past, he said that at least it was honest; the French came with guns, while the Americans come pretending to help, educate and support.   I tried to tell him about the projects my friends are working on, and why I thought travel was important, but this guy proved he wasn’t worth my time.  Eventually he stopped talking to me, and when he left he tried to give me a kiss on the cheek,  I denied him.  He asked why, and I said “I don’t like you”.

I spent my “after-party” (a.k.a. me in Kenzie’s apartment fighting the 6 hour time difference) watching Al Jazeera in English.  I actually like the channel except for its reporting on Israel.  They had this great piece on stolen babies in Guatemala; apparently the Guatemalan Attorney General petitioned the US for help on adopted babies.  We would never  hear about this in the states.

Il y avait un défilé!

Filed under: storytime — Tags: , , , — Lindsay @ 2:38 am

After I finished writing the last blog post I deduced that there was in fact a pride parade occurring on Saturday in Paris from a sign outside a bar that said “Pre-Parade” and was decorated with a rainbow assortment of balloons. Some might think my enthusiasm for such an event comes from my sexual orientation, but they’d be wrong – I’m straight.  I think I love pride parades because (1) they are just so entertaining, especially in San Francisco, (2) they produce the best people watching to be found in the world, (3) it’s something to do in Paris that didn’t involve shopping or going to the museum, and (4) there exists something for most to relate to, in the fight for equality, and freedom from persecution and discrimination.

Before I got to the parade I stopped on Rue de Rosiers and picked up some falafel and hummus.  My first waiter didn’t speak english, so I asked another if he spoke hebrew, and said to him in hebrew “If not English, I speak Hebrew, if you can help me”.  I thought this might “endear” an Israeli, but then I realized, the last place you go for good service and new friends is an Israeli owned restaurant in France; you know what I’m syaing?  That being said the falafel was good, definitely homemade, but I’ve had better pita and hummus.

Afterwards I walked to Boulevard Henri IV to watch the parade.  I found a cafe, sat down, and enjoyed a glass of red wine. Of course I began talking to my table mates, an older lesbian couple that spoke competent english.  I was happy to just conversate with others after a day of being by myself, and they were really friendly, offering to explain to me each float that came by.  I hung around for maybe 35 minutes chatting with them.

The Parade apparently started at around 2PM in another part of town and made its way across the Seine into Marais and Bastille. The parade was a far cry from what we see in San Francisco.   It made SF’s parade look militaristically organized, but well funded, extremely competent, and very purposeful and meaningful.  The floats in Paris were mostly gutted 18 wheelers, blasting club music with about 50-100 people walking behind dancing to the music.  When I say people, I don’t mean people affiliated with the float’s organization, I mean the public, any random jacque et janine that wants to dance on the street.  There’s no fences partitioning the parade from the crowd, the two seamlessly come together.

While I couldn’t understand all the signs and banners, I did feel as though the parade was a parade for free love and expression of both homo- and hetero-sexuality, not necessarily a parade of statements.  People were there to party together, which I thought was so much fun, but because of it, the messages about marriage, safe sex, political equality and parental rights were very lost.

After the parade I returned to Marais thinking the party would continue.  I stopped at a bar, grabbed a beer, and stood on the street watching the crowds return from Bastille.  When this girl showed up, the crowd gotten even larger.  As the sun set, cars and mopeds were having trouble getting through; so was the Orthodox Jewish man and his son, who I presume were heading to havdallah service.   I think it’s great:  The old Jewish Quarter, is the new Gay Neighborhood, flush with amazing shopping.  Why not love Marais?

When I returned home and emptied my pockets I found a note with someone’s phone number and address.  Of course I go out and pick up two lesbians!  Well, not quite; those two offered me their contact info in case there was an emergency before Kenzie got to Paris. Who says the French are rude?

June 27, 2009

Ou est mon amie Kenzie habite?

Filed under: storytime — Tags: , , , — Lindsay @ 6:24 am

I started writing a letter to my parents about my first few hours in Paris, but I decided there’s nothing to hide, and it’s more fun to share it here! I’m also hoping that in the time it takes me to write this, my friend that arrives tomorrow can respond to me with some information I need for the next 24 hours.

So I got in this morning around 9 or so and had a couple hiccups trying to get on the RER out of the airport to the city. Those hiccups paled in comparison to my attempts to get to my friend’s apartment building and then actually get into the apartment. She lives in the 6th arrondisement, St-Germain, and is not getting back from the states until tomorrow morning. When she gave me the keys last week she gave me brief instructions which I quickly forgot; I didn’t realize this until I got into the courtyard of her building. Perfect.

The first woman told me mon amie lived on the second floor, so I spent about 10 minutes trying to get into one apartment with her keys, then I went to the 1st floor and tried to get into another apartment because I thought the description of “two doors next to eachother” sounded familiar. Wrong. Then I “introduced” myself to a sweet older women who didn’t speak english. I put “introduced” in quotes because I really rang her doorbell to see if anyone was home before I tried to get into that apartment with my friend’s keys too! I said “Je m’appelle Lindsay. Je suis amie de Kenzie, l’americaine.” She said “oh oh, elle est jeune, n’est ce pas?” (she’s young right?). This is all I could really pull off, followed with “Ou est-ce qu’elle habite?”

She told me to go to the 4th floor. There, I ran into another man, introduced myself again the same way, but he pointed to me to the wrong door and I swear, I must have scared whoever was inside when I tried to unlock that door with her keys. I ran into him again in the courtyard when I was just about to give up. He took me to see the guardian who pointed me to the correct door. When I finally got in, I was so relieved! Her apartment is spacious and airy, and partly settled the way I would expect her place to be!

So after introducing myself to the entire apartment building in my broken french I decided to get lost in Paris. In my guidebook it said that the Gay Pride parade is the last Saturday of June, so I thought this would be a great event to check out. I took the metro to Bastille, which is where the guide book said the parade ended. There was nothing. I was disappointed, but I just continued walking, and perusing.

Of course when I “get lost” I have to end up in the Jewish Quarter of Marais! It’s like there’s some centrifical force that pulled me there. Or it just so happens that I decided to follow a fabulous looking cross-dresser (thinking I’d find the gay pride parade) and ended up in Marais where there’s great shopping. On my way I walked around a crafts fair in Bastille; I bought some really great and unique cards from Noyelle that have horoscopes in french on the front.  I then stopped at the Place des Vosges, which is absolutely beautiful.
Well, she hasn’t yet responded, so I guess I’ll find out what’s going on tonight in the City of Lights for me to enjoy! Au revoir mes amis.